ASTM International - ASTM D6193-16
Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
|Publication Date:||1 January 2016|
|ICS Code (Clothes):||61.020|
significance And Use:
4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam configuration, and thread type which should be used for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many... View More
4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam configuration, and thread type which should be used for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many variables. The improper selection of any one component can result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure of the product manufactured.
4.2 General Characteristics-The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability, security, and appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be joined to form the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection of the seam type and stitch type should be based upon these considerations.
4.2.1 Strength-The seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strength of a sewn seam are:
220.127.116.11 Fabric type and strength,
18.104.22.168 Seam type,
22.214.171.124 Stitch type,
126.96.36.199 Stitch density (spi),
188.8.131.52 Thread tension, and
184.108.40.206 Thread strength.
220.127.116.11 Fabric type and strength,
18.104.22.168 Seam type,
22.214.171.124 Stitch type,
126.96.36.199 Stitch density (spi),
188.8.131.52 Thread tension, and
184.108.40.206 Thread elasticity.
4.2.4 Security-The security of a sewn seam depends chiefly upon the stitch type, spi, and its susceptibility to become unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and unraveling of certain stitch types.
220.127.116.11 In addition to these general characteristics, the technique and skill of the sewing machine operators also govern the appearance of the sewn seams. Some of the factors which will adversely affect the appearance are shown in Table 1.View Less
1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:
1.3.1 Section 5-Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,
Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding the edge of the material in an "S" fold with the raw edge turned under to form a finished edge, and stitching through the two folds with one row of stitches.
1.3.3 Annex A1-Seam Assembly Recommendations.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.